Aha....Are you using the Honda ignition switch ?? Or still just the original Fiat one ??
Ahh...you will figure it out.
Start with the basics. Your ECU likely requires 2 or 3 pins each of battery power, ignition switched power, and grounds. Double check all of those are hooked up correctly.
If all okay there....check if your ECU has an immobilizer circuit built in. Are you using a US market or JDM ECU ? If it does...that might be a bugger to overcome. It aint easy. Hopefully...your K Tuned unit has the capability to bypass it. If so.. you should be able to have the option to turn on/turn off the immobilizer with the software.
And....sounds silly...but have you tried hooking up an OBD2 reader to see if that might tell you something ??
Ah....i think that the K tuner comes from the factory defaulted to "immobilzer on". Thus you will most likely have to hook up your laptop to it and toggle that setting to "immobilzer off" Hopefully it is that simple.....i'd check that first. Good luck.
Good use of the latex molding rubber, I like using that for some projects too. Should keep the matts from migrating a whole lot too as it's fairly grippy when dry.
"First Start"
Congratulations Hussein for the first start,
that is huge project who you can be proud.
Félicitation!
Yves
Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring
secured with one plastic rivet
I'll cover it with carpet
made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40
Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel
reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage
all good now
Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work
changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times
After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down.
These are the dead times I should have switched to before running it
I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
The time required for the injectors to begin to open is referred to as 'Injector Dead Time”. The injector dead time is dependent upon several variables such as the characteristics of the actual injector itself, plus external influences such as fuel pressure and particularly supply voltageNice work, unfortunately looks like you inserted the same image for the dead times.
Sorry I don’t understand the concept of dead times, could you provide some more background for us?
What do they call it? All the aftermarket injectors i looked at have the deadtimes listed. I was amazed on how much it effected things. When i was told to adjust it i thought they were crazy.Thanks. I recall a different term in the Megasquirt manuals. Makes sense now. Thanks!
Indeed! Where the are backflips and back slaps around this momentous moment????!!!
Big congrats on an amazing job, well done!
Nice work, unfortunately looks like you inserted the same image for the dead times.
Sorry I don’t understand the concept of dead times, could you provide some more background for us?
Thank you Karl. I was so happy it started right up I forgot all about my concern that the header flange would leak due to the warpage from re-welding the runners, however that seems to be OK.
I think the others have covered deadtimes/latency as much as I know about them. From experience with the old wagon I just know that having the correct values for any given injector is critical. They are not always published. I was going to switch to 1600cc Bosch injectors on that, as I was running over 80% duty cycle on the 1000cc's I had in it, but couldn't find the latency values listed anywhere.
I really don't understand the correlation between voltage, time in ms & fuel pressure besides that one needs the correct values or everything else will be skewed.