Michael Albers
Daily Driver
I hate to say, it looks like the grease in the cylinder may have been put there to make the rings seal to fake out a compression test.
Definitely not cool!
I hate to say, it looks like the grease in the cylinder may have been put there to make the rings seal to fake out a compression test.
Definitely not cool!
It might be cheaper in the long run to source a new block. They must be fairly common and plentiful. I'd give eBay a try maybe...
Nippon Racing pistons were recommended on K20a.org. Those can be had for about $200 a complete piston/ring set for conventional NA build spec (std., .020, .030, 040") so this may not be as bad as I was expecting. I really didn't want to go the Wiseco route, as nice as forged are, they always consume some oil when compared to a cast piston install, in my experience.
I'm surprised that they're not forged from the factory. With as high a piston speed as this engine sees (one of the highest in a production engine), you would think a forging could be lighter than a casting.
Pete
I think for SS and small stuff like this, a water cooled torch is overkill. It is SUPER useful for heavier gauge aluminum as the amperage is way higher and you can keep welding without melting your torch. Air cooled should be fine.
I cut it out to make it easier to run the shift cables thru there. I plan on running the shift cables thru the same hole that the stock shift rod runs thru. Should be plenty strong enough and no crap will load up there as it is open at the bottom for bolt access.
Quite the complex set of objects. Really lovely engineering but not a nice one to have to assemble (particularly for the first time).
Spring has finally sprung here this week, rain all week and this weekend will be all sunshine and warm so the leaves will be quickly unfolding.
Happy to see progress for your sake.
How is that Volvo coming along? Now that is an amazing puzzle.