What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

I found a couple pictures on Google to show how other people have done it:

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But one of my favorites is a more permanent and automated solution:

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A couple discussions on the subject:
http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/aft/21909

https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-...167-loading-a-lowered-car-into-a-trailer.html

And some videos:
https://www.google.com/search?q=loa...ndfbAhUSHHwKHYwjAV4Q_AUICigB&biw=1366&bih=635
 
Yes.. load it on the tow truck backwards. Back the tow truck to the trailer, unload. It's a little tougher going into a moving van you have to push as most moving vans are the same or higher in heigth. (once We moved to a hill to let gravity pull the car into the moving van as I let the winch out.
 
Makes sense. Some of those flat beds seem able to articulate to a very low/flat position. Amazing how it can then lift the weight of the car once it is extended out like that.
That is sort of the idea behind the last image I posted above. The car is driven onto the little lift, then it is raised to the height of the trailer.
 
One other thought - if you can get access to a 4-post hoist you can raise the car to trailer height and transfer it that way. Safe, simple, and most garages have them.
 
The pictures above are ones like I started plotting . Pre ramps then the real ones. I am currently going with 10foot 2x12 with a possible square steel tubing as added strength. Heavy as crap, but will be strong. Then if that angle isnt right I will double up. Cost will be about 75 total. So much better than aluminum 10 footers at 900.

Odie
 
Well, it was a long week for my X... I ordered the coil-over kit from Vicks and dropped my car off at a local shop to have it installed. As soon as the car got put up on the lift they found that my front bushings had disintegrated and I basically had metal on metal. I ordered a set of poly urethane bushings for the front and rear and had them shipped to the shop. Along the way they discovered that the kit was missing a couple of pieces so those had to get shipped out as well. After 4 days of missing my little X, I finally was able to pick it up in the rain with rush hour traffic. I immediately noticed that the clock, radio and door lights were not working. Once I got home I realized that the brake warning light was also staying on due to the brake lever not being adjusted correctly. I am not sure why the fuse blew, but replacing it seems to have fixed the problem. I need to go straighten out my brake handle and that will be resolved..

The good news is I really like how the car handles now! The suspension is a little stiffer than my previous setup and the new bushings front and rear eliminated all of the loud clunking noises! Once again, I am seriously disappointed in the level of work local shops do but thrilled with the results of replacing 30 year old parts...

Now if the rain would stop, life would be great!

Ed
 
No pictures, but this weekend was eventful,

-Replaced the original steel radiator in the '85 X with a MWB aluminum one. Also replaced the two front coolant hoses and flushed the whole system.

-While the radiator was out, I sanded back and repainted and undercoated the radiator housing/front frunk firewall (not sure what it's called). There was some minor surface corrosion that I wanted to nuetralize before it got worse and there was no better time to do it than when the radiator was out.

-Plastic welded a cracked (but not broken) mounting tab on the front lip. Glad I found this before it broke all the way through. It would have been really hard/ perhaps impossible to repair and get the alignment correct if it had.

-Replaced 3-4 screws that were missing that held the front grill/elephant ears in place.

-Wired up a switch (had a spare interior light switch) to the coolant fan relay so I can switch the fans on/off at will - in addition to the radiator temp sensor automatically switching them on/off. I like this solution because it looks stock.

-Repaired corroded drivers side door switch.

-Sanded and filled in a few rock chips with touch up paint.
 
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ecohen2 said:
I went with the lightest ones
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That is what I would have guessed by your prior comment, "The suspension is a little stiffer than my previous setup." The other spring rates offered on those kits would have felt MUCH harder, and your remarks would have been different. You got the best choice of rates in my opinion (for a non-race car).
 
I am very happy with them so far. I traded some tires and my previous suspension pieces with @carl... The Federal tires I have now are lumpy from sitting on my tire rack and not being rotated enough. At low speeds the car feels like its always going over ridges in the road, but at higher speeds it is absolutely smooth... Hopefully they round out sometime soon...
 
Yesterday I had Lu Tressi, Arman, and Adam X came over after changing my timing belt and tensioner bearing my car would not start I had everything lined up but the distributor rotor was pointing just ahead of the #4 on the cap. So we pulled the distributor rotated it on notch over wala car started right up. Arman brought a timing light and we got the timing set. Thanks goes out to Lu, Arman, and Adam for getting me going I did everything right just did not realize that I was just a hair fwd of the #4 in the cap. Thanks to Arman my engine hasn't sounded that good since I owned it.
 
The electric window switches were cracked and would not stay flush in the console so I finally got around to digging out the two good ones I had hidden away.
While messing with another off the wall project that if it is successful I might post I decided this would be a good time to do it.
The N/O switches looked good but were dirty so I took them apart a cleaned them.
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Dr.Jeff said:
Nice work. I think you could one of these...

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You know, for all those loose screws and bits on your work bench. :) Although if you saw my shop you would call me a hypocrite. :(
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I figured I would get some flack for the messy work table.
I was in the middle of another project when I decided to do the switches.
I have what I call the miniature table shown in the pictures. This work area is for the small stuff. I do not do it much anymore but used to make little stuff like this,
dragoon.jpg
thus the name miniature table. It is in a small area of my wife's studio where she makes doll hats and clothes among other things. You think my table looks messy you should see her work area.
Then there is the art studio up stairs where we paint and I do resin casting, then the metal casting area in the corner of the garage, then the garage it's self, then my separate work shop where I work on cars and weld. We are spread out and all these places get quite cluttered.
No flat surface is safe around here.
We do clean and straighten every once in a while but after hours of straightening if seems to only take minutes to mess it all up again.
Tomorrow I am planing on straightening up and then getting back on my secret project on the X19.
If it is successful I will share it.
 
dragonsgate said:
but used to make little stuff like this
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If you tell me that gun actually works I will be amazed beyond belief. And I'll want you to make a slightly larger one for me.


dragonsgate said:
We do clean and straighten every once in a while but after hours of straightening if seems to only take minutes to mess it all up again.
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Isn't that the truth!


dragonsgate said:
Tomorrow I am planing on straightening up and then getting back on my secret project on the X19.
If it is successful I will share it.
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Please share what it would have been even if it isn't successful. I like to hear the ideas of others. And to quote the famous Sterling Archer, "if you learn something from it then it isn't a mistake".
Sterling_Archer_Standing_POSE.png
 
Drove the B16 X into work today! success!! Engine temps stayed at 179-182, when I got to work I went to purge the coolant and there was no air!! woo hoo!! Discovered I have an LS transmission which is good and bad. a little weaker, but geared for more cruising. (3800 rpm at 80 MPH for this trans vs 4000 at 70 for the standard JDM b16). Lots of rattles, so I will have to work those out still. reprogramming of the dash as the engine temp it right about where the steering wheel is at. the intake temp is it clear view so I may swap those around. I can see the numbers for the RPM, but not the graphic bar, so I might move those around as well. Also the screen I did that emulated the X dash, with the reverse tach, I didnt have room for a temp gauge, but if I want to use that screen, considering my issues I have had, I am just going to put in numbers instead for the water temp. and then it will fit.

Odie
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bensonbe said:
Yesterday I had Lu Tressi, Arman, and Adam X came over after changing my timing belt and tensioner bearing my car would not start I had everything lined up but the distributor rotor was pointing just ahead of the #4 on the cap. So we pulled the distributor rotated it on notch over wala car started right up. Arman brought a timing light and we got the timing set. Thanks goes out to Lu, Arman, and Adam for getting me going I did everything right just did not realize that I was just a hair fwd of the #4 in the cap. Thanks to Arman my engine hasn't sounded that good since I owned it.
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The spec for timing for an FI engine is 10° BTDC, but try setting it at 12-14° and see how your engine likes it. If you're worried, you can run the next octane notch up, like 89. Since the hash marks only go to 10°, you will need one of the timing lights with a dial on the back.
 
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