Not sure there is any way I can stop the runners from resonating entirely.
Do have two primaries that are touching or nearly touching each other and buzzing when they resonate? If so, can you wedge some header wrap between them to stop the noise?
Rev hang has been one of the complaints about the K20 Si’s since the late 2000’s. Most current manuals suffer this for emissions reasons I suspect, the Tigershark in our Jeep Compass certainly does.That seems to be the case. I wedged SS plate in-between the 3 areas I found, so there must be other points of contact, I'll have to look further as it is annoying. Driving the car the past few days, the hang is still present. This is so f-king annoying. I'm going to gave to figure out a way to add an additional return spring to counter whatever the blasted system is doing to hold a partial throttle opening.
Regarding the pedal height, it may be just the way I ‘heel and toe’ but the gas pedal needs to start off from a lower position so when you do press the brake pedal and take up the ’slack’ in the system you have both brake and gas at the same height.Thinking about the throttle opening 'issue'. I went back & read MWB's rationale for the lever height reduction. The premise is that the throttle will be twitchy with the ratio of the stock pedal/lever throw. They recommend 2" reduction, I think I went around 1.75", according to my notes. I never tried it with the stock lever so I don't know just how twitchy it would be, however the response as it is now feels pretty 'normal'.
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I added an additional return spring
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can't tell really what angle I have from the cable to the lever barrel, I think I set it basically level
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Anyway, since I have the spare pedal, I think I'll cut the second one just an inch & try it. Alternatively, I could remove the modded one, and heat & bend the pedal arm so it doesn't hit the carpet until later in the travel. That would bring the gas pedal rearward though. Since the gas pedal sits well below the brake & clutch pedal height, that may not be such a big deal.
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Regarding the pedal height, it may be just the way I ‘heel and toe’ but the gas pedal needs to start off from a lower position so when you do press the brake pedal and take up the ’slack’ in the system you have both brake and gas at the same height.
Be watchful regarding that added return spring on the pedal. It seems to me that the TB she be the part pulling the pedal back to home position. With a strong return on the pedal, a situation might develop in which the pedal creates enough slack in the cable for the cable to derail at the TB. It's a long length of cable, so the added friction gives more opportunity for a mishap. I have had it happen on much shorter cables.
Just reading about K20 engines on wikipedia. Is there one, single version most people use in X1/9’s, or are any and all of them used with no rhyme or reason? Which version did you go with?Yeah - I was thinking about that on the drive to work - the gas pedal really cannot be any higher/closer to the driver than it is, even though on mine, the brake pedal sits higher than stock with the dual-master setup I have.
Just reading about K20 engines on wikipedia. Is there one, single version most people use in X1/9’s, or are any and all of them used with no rhyme or reason? Which version did you go with?
Thanks.