Preparing For Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
I think for SS and small stuff like this, a water cooled torch is overkill. It is SUPER useful for heavier gauge aluminum as the amperage is way higher and you can keep welding without melting your torch. Air cooled should be fine.

Invest in a dual regulator instead!

https://www.amazon.com/0-15MPA-Mete...44752409&sr=8-5&keywords=dual+regulator+argon
https://www.amazon.com/Backpurge-Me...44752409&sr=8-7&keywords=dual+regulator+argon
https://store.cyberweld.com/smduflre30se.html
Thanks for the link, I've saved it in my wish list for consideration. I can't recall what I paid for my current regulator, but I know that cheaper units don't hold settings very well. The regulator that came with the 'kit' suffered serious flow creep in use, very annoying. I think I paid close to $100 for what I'm using now.
 

darwoodious

Darin Nelson
Thanks for the link, I've saved it in my wish list for consideration. I can't recall what I paid for my current regulator, but I know that cheaper units don't hold settings very well. The regulator that came with the 'kit' suffered serious flow creep in use, very annoying. I think I paid close to $100 for what I'm using now.
Yeah, I bought the Miller regulator from CyberWeld. Well built, solid and seems quite precise.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
More work on the inner runners



Welded the two outers to the flange, then checked the inners for fit again. Had to heat the runners & pull them in slightly to get the flange flat again, so I clamped it to the SHorty header. Still needs multiple clamps as it like to distort readily local to the weld in progress.



Tacked #3 in place.


Check #2 fit again




Used up my tank of Argon getting this far, so Mon I'll have to get it refilled. I didn't fill my spare tank this week, so no more welding this weekend :(
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Took the header off the shorty that I was using to keep it flat - only to find the shorty was bowed in the middle, so now so is my header. Not the end of the world, as I still have to weld the two center runners. I can still get it more level, since the middle isn't fixed relative to the collector. Cleaned up some welds, ground down the runner welds at each end for the outer top lock nut seating area, removed the welded brackets that held the heat shield. They would have been in the way of welding the center runners at the top.

Not going to weld the collector (flange goes away before collector is welded) until the motor can be mocked up in the bay, too many variables for vertical and longitudinal offset.





So next week I get the #2 runner welded, level the flange, cut the collector ends level, weld the merge collector & then leave it be.

Futzed with little things like the expansion tank hoses, and then realized the tank will be much closer to the motor than I have it here, so another thing to be left alone for now.

 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Finished up the main work on the header, runners all welded, merge collector welded.





This is the comparison of the stock flange & shorty header flange ports, relative to the manifold gasket

shorty



stock (only marginally enlarged)

 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Took about an hour to block sand the flange flat. There is still a slight "dip" between 2/3 but not enough to impact sealing. Have to elongate the 4 outer bolt holes, as the flange has contracted after welding.





 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
My header has ended up 1" higher up than Rodgers, relative to the center dip of the flange (5.5" drop, vs. 6.5" with his). I got the length close enough. Based on that, my runner/collector merge sits above the block center rib (webbing) used as a reference point for the body panel opening.

This may not be an issue, based on pics like this (looking at gap between collector & body): EDIT - it was an issue :D



however I will definitely have to leave the collector welding until I have the mockup ready. I can raise or lower the collector angle at that point, and offset the V-band flange as needed to level the exhaust (in the opening).



 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Finally started chopping up the parts car to make the test bed for the K24, and the dash area for the custom dash. Mainly motivated by the need to make room for the S40 AWD parts car :D

 

TonyK

True Classic
Finally started chopping up the parts car to make the test bed for the K24, and the dash area for the custom dash. Mainly motivated by the need to make room for the S40 AWD parts car :D

Hussein the mistake I made with my test body is that I did not keep the AC lines, brake lines and wire harness in the test body. All of this was important after I installed the Abarth engine and interference then presented it's self in the road car.

Just a thought to consider.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Hussein the mistake I made with my test body is that I did not keep the AC lines, brake lines and wire harness in the test body. All of this was important after I installed the Abarth engine and interference then presented it's self in the road car.
Just a thought to consider.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Thank you Tony - I had forgotten about that. I am still on the fence on deleting the AC or not, I haven't decided on a AC compressor configuration. I think it would be safest if I leave that (AC) stuff in the bay initially - the brake line routing has to be reworked (from what I have seen with the frame work), and the harness will be revised anyway.

EDIT - realizing it would have been better to retain the frame rails further back, as now I can't work on the actual exhaust much beyond the header configuration.
 
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stingray250

True Classic
I'd be willing to give you a couple bucks plus shippin for that glove box lid if the hinges are intact... Yeah yeah I know... the carcass isn't even cold.
 
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